12/17/2023 0 Comments Craftsman router collet![]() one I got, most of it was in the box but not all of it.but don't forget it's sold asis where is.so I got the 1st.one and I called them and said what's up and they said I could return to any Sears outlet and get my money back but it was a great deal ,new motor and base so I got a power cord from Sears and now I'm a happy camper. of the Pro.models one from Conn.and one from TX. Just a Note:::: they will ship it for you but it takes the magic word (Pls.) and talking to the person in charge. You will be doing this kind of technique again and again as you do more projects.New but close out items but may be missing some parts.store display models the norm. This is an excellent learning project, BTW. Be sure you pre drill the hole for this screw so it doesn't split the edge of the layer it goes through The graw arrow represents a height adjustment screw. The other drawing suggests how to cut a rabbet for the plate to sit on. It allows you make fine adjustments to the bottom or plate position so it's perfectly centered using the positioning cone mentioned above. ![]() The last drawing is of how to drill a hole slightly oversized in the plate, using a flat head bolt, so the head is below the top of the plat. You could even find an old table in a thrift shop and use it, if the top is flat, or lay your shop made top on it after cutting an opening for the router. It's really pretty simple and a lot of folks here swear by their shop made tables. In that lip, you can put in some screws to adjust the plate height so it's level with the top. IF you want to get fancy, glue on a second layer and make a smaller hole in it so you form a lip so the plate won't fall through. You can use your new router to cut an opening for the plate by using some scrap wood wrapped around the plate (as shown), then use a one inch long bit with a top mounted bearing (shown) to hog out the opening. It requires a really flat chunk of plywood, 2x3 feet or so, a really flat 2x4 or 6 and a couple of clamps to hold the fence down. I've seen them in the $30 price range.Īnd don't dismiss making your own router table instead of resurecting an old one. It is much easier to fit a plate to your table than mill aluminum. I suggest you pop for a commercial plate, pre drilled for the Bosch. ![]() That's about as good as first questions get. ![]() Herb, I'm gonna be scrounging and scraping as is to upgrade my router, so I'm not sure I can drop 70 bucks on a chuck, thanks for the heads-up though. Phil, it does indeed come with only the 1/4 collet and, even without the base plate installed, does not extend far enough, thanks. Heya John, the Bosch is 2 1/4 HP - is that skirting the line regarding enough power? It does include 1/2 and 1/4 inch collet chucks, and a fixed base in addition to a plunge base. Luckily I've not yet drilled my plate, but I do have those Bosch insert rings in my Amazon cart - I was going to use a hole saw in my drill press for the bit opening (I'm told to liberally use/apply machine oil when drilling) and rout the step for the insert rings (my machinist friends at the Banjo Hangout - which is where I've been getting my advice until now - say it should work fine). Tom, I've actually been looking at that model, and, if I can scrape the money together, is the one I'm leaning towards. 4) I didn't know that the router design (other than its own collet) dictated how thick a collet could safely/comfortably be used. 2) my router being hella heavy, I was worried about sagging/warping with a thinner sheet (although, in hindsight, maybe I could have gone thinner. No worries Dan - 1) apparently this model comes in 3 different variations: 1/2, 1, and 1 and 1/2 HP, and I can't for the life of me find any distinguishing marks on mine (other than 25,000 RPM). I had no idea this was such an active forum! Nick, I did indeed remove the base plate before measuring, and there are no spacers, and thank you much for the warm welcome. Thanks for all the responses and great info guys (and so quick, too). ![]()
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